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Which to use?

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Which to use?


I have a couple pieces of equipment in which to assist with networking within my QTH.  I have a question in regards which to use and really how to set it up.

The first is a Cisco Catalyst 3520-C PoE.  This is actually what I'd like to use since it is PoE compatible. I just don't know exactly how to set it up at the moment. I do have it at stock settings currently so it should be fairly easy to setup. Also I know my way around it a little.

Second would be a Linksys NR041 which has a nice GUI but don't, that I know of, have the ability to be set up for AREDN.

I would prefer the Cisco switch as it is PoE is there anyone that could assist in the setup? Are either compatible or am I stuck with purchasing a gs105ev2?

Any and all help is welcomed!

Thank you!


K5DLQ's picture
Verify that the Cisco switch

Verify that the Cisco switch is passive PoE or 802.3af (ie. smart 48V)

WU2S's picture
48V network switches and Ubiquiti 802.3AF adapter

For those considering long Ethernet runs between a PoE injector or switch and the Ubiquiti node, here is another option worth considering. On long runs, it is more efficient to power at a higher voltage, so you can use a Switch such as the Netgear GS108PEv3 or the Toughswitch TS-9-Pro at 48V. The key to success is to use a Ubiquiti Instant 802.3AF PoE adapter ( outdoor and indoor models available )  at the node end of the cable. I recently tried this adapter with both types of switches and it works well. The Netgear switch is auto-sensing (true 802.3af) and the Toughswitch is passive PoE (not auto-sensing).

PLEASE NOTE: You lose the ability to remotely trigger the remote reset with these Instant 802.3AF adapter devices.

Randy WU2S

Try this:https://www

Try this:
Let me know if you need help configuring the switch.

The PoE in most Cisco switches is 802.3af, and will require a converter as already mentioned below. 

If you are just getting into AREDN, I highly suggest buying the newly supported MikroTik hAP AC Lite. Basically, you get a mesh node with plenty of RAM and Flash memory, built-in switch already configured with all 3 VLANs, built-in dual band Access Point, Passive PoE In for power, passive PoE passthrough for power to another node via DtD port, and USB connector for 5V output to power other small devices like a raspberry Pi for example. You can easily connect additional nodes via RF, or even better, via the DtD port(power and data).



I've done this. I'm able to connect via my pc directly to the switch and gain access to the outside.  It 'may' be working but I may have a setting on the node incorrect or something. I have Comcast and I was notified that my TP Link was added to the network and has pulled an ip address. When I go directly to the node it tells me still that theres no internet and no WAN address.

Any ideas? I mean it's a really basic description of what is happening but short of a video, drawing of it it's kind of hard to explain in any more detail. 

I guess the internet is not really an issue but showing up on the map and being able to help others that are interested in this would be a great sales point. Obviously my education and abilities are lacking!

Thank you all for your help thus far!

I mistakenly put in the wrong

I mistakenly put in the wrong switch number it is a 3560-C. I wanted to use it because it will not require me to buy anything more for my home but I'll have a look at the directions above and see if I can make heads or tails from it.

I appreciate the suggestions!


The 3560 will work, with an 802.3af 48V to passive 24V adapter such as the Ubiquiti above, a Tycon TP-POE-1824G, or similar. My current favorite switch is the MikroTik hEX PoE which allows me to run everything off a single 24V supply with 5 passive PoE ports. I've used the Tycon adapters at one site which has a Cisco 3750 with regular PoE, but after just a couple adapters it starts to get expensive and cabling messy. In any case you can control power, but can't do a pushbutton reset for the node. I always keep a Ub injector with the button around for that rare need. I also put the injectors in the switch rack since 24V is enough to go the distance. No need to have them on the roof/tower.


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